Portrait of a Journey

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The days of my motorcycle journey from California would soon be coming to close and now that I didn't have to worry about souvenirs taking up space or breaking, I was in search of something to remember this journey with. A fellow traveler and photographer mentioned that while I was in Buenos Aires, I should visit Studio Fotin, a photography studio in San Telmo using a really unique type of photography. I checked out their website and saw their ambrotype portraits. Instantly I knew I had to find … [Read more...]

The Beginning of the End

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My Last Ride into Buenos Aires The cool morning in San Antonio de Areco was a reminder of the changing seasons. Heavy fog and light rain greeted me as I packed up my bike. Winter will be here soon. I only had two hours of riding to reach Buenos Aires, the final city on my journey. How could I already be here? It doesn't seem like seven months have passed since beginning. The two lane road leaving the small rural town soon became a massive 10 lane highway leading me to the capital city. With the … [Read more...]

San Antonio de Areco

Work by Argentine artist Florencio Molina Campos.

I wanted to get to Buenos Aires but knowing that would be the final stop of this adventure, I didn’t want to get there quite yet. I’ve regularly used the standard traveler’s guide Lonely Planet to look up ideas of places to go and that’s how I ended up here, in San Antonio de Areco. I rode into the town after a few hours of passing farm land and estancias. The cobblestone streets of the center of town were quiet as I rode down them towards the park and the tourism office. In small towns like … [Read more...]

Alta Gracia

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Alta Gracia is a small town less than one hour south of Córdoba city. A well paved four lane highway cuts through the flat farm land which makes for a fast yet otherwise forgettable ride. The town was founded by the Jesuits when they built a mission there in the 17th century. The town grew up around the mission and now has about 50,000 people living there.  The mission is now just a museum but the property has been maintained and is the main draw for tourists. Cafes, shops, restaurants, museums, … [Read more...]

The Seven Waterfalls

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Wanting to leave the city behind, I took a day ride north to see a different area of the state of Córdoba. My host, Martin, mentioned a few places to the north that were worth riding to so I picked one and headed out. I forgot to charge my GPS battery so my exit out of the city was extended by an additional 45 minutes of missing turns and turning around. I eventually found highway 73 and headed into the mountains. Once again, the trees in the area were warming up for their autumn … [Read more...]

Córdoba

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Arriving in Córdoba, Argentina's second largest city, I rode down busy streets lined with trees beginning to show their autumn colors. The city of 1 million is one of the more well kept that I've seen on this trip. I discovered more and more things to love about this city over the 6 days that I spent there. In Córdoba I stayed with one of the most generous CouchSurfing hosts yet. Martin offered to put me up in his apartment in downtown. Unlike the city I just came from, Martin suggested … [Read more...]

Riding North To Córdoba

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San Rafael, San Luis, to Córdoba, Argentina I spoke to early about the weather warming up enough to ride without my winter gloves and jacket liner. Leaving San Rafael it was a cool crisp autumn morning. Most of the day it was only me on the small two lane roads to San Luis. I stopped for the night in the small city of San Luis after hearing from someone that it was worth it. Maybe it was the dreary cloudy weather but I wasn't seeing why this place would be on anyone's list. I … [Read more...]

Cañon del Atuel

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Bored in San Rafael I took a day to check out the area just south of the city. Not more than an hour away is Valle Grande and Cañon del Atuel. Riding alongside the Rio Atuel the road twists and turns then starts to climb in a few switchbacks until you ride through a tunnel and alongside the reservoir. After 600 miles of mostly straight flat roads up from San Martin de Los Andes, I was enjoying the curves of this canyon road. The joy quickly fled in an instant as I rounded a shaded corner and … [Read more...]

Long Days Ride

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San Martin de Los Andes, Neuquén, to San Rafael I was back on the road. Back to the days of finding a new place to sleep every other night, new scenery everyday. From San Martin I back tracked a bit to jump on Ruta 40 and then make my way to the town of Neuquén. I had read that there wasn't much to do there but that nearby were the world's largest collection of dinosaur fossils. After two hours of riding through nice windy roads passing farms and rivers I was soon riding down the long … [Read more...]

The Last Border

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Pucón, Chile to San Martin de Los Andes, Argentina From Pucón I packed my bike up after 8 days of volunteering on an eco home build. The ride started out the worst way possible. As I said goodbye to the family I got on the bike and instead of turning around in the driveway I decided to just ride through the grass. I had forgotten that the previous night the rain had turned the front yard into a lake. When I hit the throttle and went to turn off the grass my tires went out from underneath me in … [Read more...]

A New Direction

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Ushuaia to Punta Arenas After my few days in Ushuaia and more snow expected I packed up the bike and for the first time in a long time, I'm heading north. Jayne, Phil, and Ian were ready to get out of Ushuaia as well so the four of us hit the road together. Under cloudy skies we rode the winding mountain roads until the mountains were behind us and all that was ahead was the flat rolling landscape that makes up so much of Tierra del Fuego. By sunset we rolled into Rio Grande where an … [Read more...]

The End of the Road

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Ushuaia, Argentina Ushuaia, Argentina, the southern-most city in the world. It's a claim that's debated as there is a small village on an island further south but most people recognize this as the end of the world. The small city of 60,000 people sits along the shore of the Beagle Chanel and below the snowcapped Martial Mountains. With it's close proximity to Antarctica it's the launching point for cruises and expeditions. Originally the area was home to the indigenous tribe of the Yaghan … [Read more...]

Al Fin del Mundo

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Rio Grande to Ushuaia It didn't matter that the sky was sunny and clear when I left Rio Grande, with the wind almost 30 miles per hour, it was chilly. After an hour of riding through the plains along the Atlantic coast, Ruta 3 begins ascending into the mountains. The wind was consistent with only a few occasional gusts that would push my bike a few feet over in the lane. There weren't any hair raising gusts but a couple moments where myself and the bike were leaning at a 45 degree angle trying … [Read more...]

To Tierra del Fuego

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El Calafate to Tierra del Fuego I checked the forecast and heavy rains were moving into the area so I decided it was time for me to make the final charge to Ushuaia. I still had 550 miles before reaching the end of the world so I broke it up into a few days. Before I started I made a slight modification to my bike to help shield me from the wind, rain, hail, snow, or whatever else might come my way down here. To keep my hands shielded from Tierra del Fuego's notoriously harsh weather I made … [Read more...]