Shipping Out


A few days before I was scheduled to fly out of Buenos Aires I went to Ezeiza International Airport to ship my motorcycle back to California. For those interested in the details I will write a post about the shipping process. This is more the narrative of the event. The day had finally arrived. About 3 weeks after arriving in Buenos Aires it was time to take my last ride in South America. While my friend Kelli shopped around San Telmo for tango shoes and dresses, I loaded up my bike and … [Read more...]



Remember a few posts back when I told you about the yellow fever outbreak that plagued San Telmo and drove all its wealthy residents away? Well they moved north and took all their money and sophistication with them to Recoleta. Buenos Aires is often characterized as "European" and there's no place where that is more the case than Recoleta. The wealthiest of Buenos Aires neighborhoods, Recoleta is home to all the finer things one would expect. Art museums, fancy restaurants and hotels, clean … [Read more...]

An American Feast In Buenos Aires


Even before I arrived in Buenos Aires I had high opinions of how welcoming Argentineans were. Everywhere I went I was treated so well. My high opinions only grew after arriving in the final city of my journey. A few weeks earlier I was Couchsurfing at Deni's when she invited me to her friend's birthday dinner. While at her friend's house for the afternoon I met everyone around the table including Marian. Before the end of the party Marian made an offer I couldn't refuse. You see, Marian is a … [Read more...]

A Lesson In Argentinian Cooking


Less than a week before I departed Argentina which meant I had a week to learn how all of my favorite Argentinian meals were made. Kelli was in San Telmo for a week so together we signed up for a cooking class. Again, just like the tango dinner shows, there are upscale cooking classes and food tours that can cost up to $300 per person. Thanks to a tip from a fellow traveller we scheduled a class with Tierra Negra. It fit our budget and I can't imagine how any other class could top this … [Read more...]

To Tango


The tango, it is practically synonymous with Argentina. I had traveled throughout the entire country but there is no place as famous for the dance as Buenos Aires. You can't escape the performers in the plazas, the paintings, or the tango shows. The Porteños (BA locals) know tourists love the tango so an industry has been built around the city's most iconic cultural export. Tango dinner shows sell from $100 to $250 per person. Obviously for a traveler like myself with a $30/day budget I … [Read more...]

San Telmo


A couple of months earlier I received a message from a friend that I grew up with. "Dan, where are you going to be in May? I have some flight credits and I could use a little South American adventure right about now" I was a few months and several thousand miles away from Buenos Aires at the time but I knew that I would be wrapping up my journey there in May. Perfect, I hadn't hung out with anyone I've known in 7 months. After two and half weeks Couchsurfing at Deni's in Villa Urquiza I … [Read more...]

La Boca and the Tango Painter


To the south of the city of Buenos Aires lies one of the most photographed neighborhoods in Argentina, La Boca. It’s brightly colored buildings are so well known that people assume all of Argentina looks that way. But in fact it’s quite unique. La Boca (the mouth) sits alongside the river and gets it’s name as its the opening of the river/harbor. La Boca’s paint scheme isn’t the only thing that makes this area so vibrant. It’s been home to artists and tango dancers for decades. The local … [Read more...]

Feria de Mataderos


Among all the other great things Buenos Aires has to offer there’s one that stood out from the rest. Across the city many neighborhoods have weekly festivals or ferias. Each one different than the rest but there was one that was like none other. Feria de Mataderos is held every Sunday from March to December in the the Mataderos neighborhood. Feria de Mataderos is known for having a long history of showcasing it’s gaucho or Argentine cowboy traditions. Blocks of neighborhood streets are … [Read more...]

Argentina’s Kentucky Derby


Gran Premio Republica Argentina Wandering the streets of Palermo in Buenos Aires one Thursday afternoon I happened upon a horse race taking place at the Hipodromo Argentino de Palermo. After watching from outside the fence I decided to see if I could get in. To my surprise the event was free to the public. And it was not just any regular race. This was the biggest one of them all. Welcome to the races. As I entered, a man was hawking programs for the race. I picked up my copy and … [Read more...]

La Bomba del Tiempo


A grungy warehouse in the heart of Buenos Aires is the last place you'd expect to find a thousand people gathering on a Monday night. But that's what happens every monday night. At the Konex, an old industrial building turned into a hip cultural and events center, a group of 14 percussionists take the stage to perform to masses of enthusiastic fans. For the next two hours La Bomba del Tiempo put on a nonstop show as their beats drive the thousand people packed inside to move every part of their … [Read more...]

Mundo Lingo Buenos Aires


Three nights a week in different bars around popular neighborhoods in Buenos Aires, about 100 people gather to meet others from around the world and practice or learn new languages. The event is Mundo Lingo. Everyone gets a sticker of their country's flag and then stickers of the languages they know or want to practice. Then you look for other people who match one of your stickers. Some people have just two, like me, and others show off 6 or more. You see flags from all over the world. I … [Read more...]

Going to a Concert in Buenos Aires


On my first day in Buenos Aires my Couchsurfing host, Denise, had the stereo playing in the living room and I couldn't get enough of the band she was playing. It was a local band named Onda Vaga. I listened to their albums nonstop while I was at the apartment. They became the soundtrack while I wrote, edited photos, and cooked. Deni saw how much I was loving their music and mentioned they were playing a show nearby and invited me to go. I would have gone to the concert even if I had never heard … [Read more...]

Portrait of a Journey


The days of my motorcycle journey from California would soon be coming to close and now that I didn't have to worry about souvenirs taking up space or breaking, I was in search of something to remember this journey with. A fellow traveler and photographer mentioned that while I was in Buenos Aires, I should visit Studio Fotin, a photography studio in San Telmo using a really unique type of photography. I checked out their website and saw their ambrotype portraits. Instantly I knew I had to find … [Read more...]

The Beginning of the End


My Last Ride into Buenos Aires The cool morning in San Antonio de Areco was a reminder of the changing seasons. Heavy fog and light rain greeted me as I packed up my bike. Winter will be here soon. I only had two hours of riding to reach Buenos Aires, the final city on my journey. How could I already be here? It doesn't seem like seven months have passed since beginning. The two lane road leaving the small rural town soon became a massive 10 lane highway leading me to the capital city. With the … [Read more...]

San Antonio de Areco

Work by Argentine artist Florencio Molina Campos.

I wanted to get to Buenos Aires but knowing that would be the final stop of this adventure, I didn’t want to get there quite yet. I’ve regularly used the standard traveler’s guide Lonely Planet to look up ideas of places to go and that’s how I ended up here, in San Antonio de Areco. I rode into the town after a few hours of passing farm land and estancias. The cobblestone streets of the center of town were quiet as I rode down them towards the park and the tourism office. In small towns like … [Read more...]