San Telmo Market


Just as the old cobblestone streets of San Telmo were carrying home the last of Saturday night’s revelers, the trucks and carts of vendors started arriving in Plaza Dorrego to set up for their big day. The San Telmo market (Feria de San Telmo) is a popular Sunday market in Buenos Aires. Local artisans, musicians, and anyone with something to sell claim a space along the street. In the main plaza the restaurants are setting out the tables and umbrellas as dancers que the tango soundtrack on the … [Read more...]

Tips to Experience Buenos Aires


Here are a few tips and resources to make the most of your time in Buenos Aires. There are countless ways to enjoy this city, these are just a few. It ultimately comes down to what you decide you want to do. The thing I'd stress the most is to connect with locals. It's an incredibly welcoming city. Couchsurf with a local or stay at an AirBnb Go to language exchanges like mundo lingo or mate conversation club See the city beyond the tourist traps Useful Guides for Local … [Read more...]

California to Argentina: Breakdowns and Maintenance


Here’s the rundown of what my 2007 BMW G650X Challenge motorcycle needed over the course of 8 months and 20,000 miles from California to Argentina. Regular Maintenance 3 Rear Tires (Heidenau K60, TKC-80, Conti-Escape) 1 Front Tire (Heidenau K60 - entire trip) Rear Brake Pads: 1 set Chain: 2 (installed in Ecuador) Front and Rear Sprockets: 1 set Rear Wheel Bearings: 1 set Oil Changes: 5 Breakdowns/Replacements Flat Tires: 4 (rear) Mirror mounts: 3 Rear Rack bolts … [Read more...]

Importing a Motorcycle into Los Angeles


This is my experience shipping my US registered motorcycle into Los Angeles (LAX). I air freighted my 2007 BMW G650X Challenge from Buenos Aires on LAN Cargo. You can read about that process here. My motorcycle arrived three days after I crated it in Buenos Aires. LAN Cargo called to notify me that it would take an additional day to clear customs. Step 1: Go to Cargo Office and pay import fee Step 2: Take paperwork to US Customs and Border Office Step 3: Collect Motorcycle at Cargo Office I … [Read more...]

Shipping a Motorcycle from Buenos Aires to Los Angeles


This is my experience shipping my US registered motorcycle by air freight from Buenos Aires, Argentina to Los Angeles, California. If you are just looking for information about how to import a motorcycle into Los Angeles (LAX) read the post here. After unsuccessfully searching for information on shipping out of Buenos Aires without using the popular middleman, Dakar Motors, I decided their $90 USD fee would be worth it. This post describes the process of shipping through Dakar Motors. I … [Read more...]

Shipping Out


A few days before I was scheduled to fly out of Buenos Aires I went to Ezeiza International Airport to ship my motorcycle back to California. For those interested in the details I will write a post about the shipping process. This is more the narrative of the event. The day had finally arrived. About 3 weeks after arriving in Buenos Aires it was time to take my last ride in South America. While my friend Kelli shopped around San Telmo for tango shoes and dresses, I loaded up my bike and … [Read more...]



Remember a few posts back when I told you about the yellow fever outbreak that plagued San Telmo and drove all its wealthy residents away? Well they moved north and took all their money and sophistication with them to Recoleta. Buenos Aires is often characterized as "European" and there's no place where that is more the case than Recoleta. The wealthiest of Buenos Aires neighborhoods, Recoleta is home to all the finer things one would expect. Art museums, fancy restaurants and hotels, clean … [Read more...]

An American Feast In Buenos Aires


Even before I arrived in Buenos Aires I had high opinions of how welcoming Argentineans were. Everywhere I went I was treated so well. My high opinions only grew after arriving in the final city of my journey. A few weeks earlier I was Couchsurfing at Deni's when she invited me to her friend's birthday dinner. While at her friend's house for the afternoon I met everyone around the table including Marian. Before the end of the party Marian made an offer I couldn't refuse. You see, Marian is a … [Read more...]

A Lesson In Argentinian Cooking


Less than a week before I departed Argentina which meant I had a week to learn how all of my favorite Argentinian meals were made. Kelli was in San Telmo for a week so together we signed up for a cooking class. Again, just like the tango dinner shows, there are upscale cooking classes and food tours that can cost up to $300 per person. Thanks to a tip from a fellow traveller we scheduled a class with Tierra Negra. It fit our budget and I can't imagine how any other class could top this … [Read more...]

To Tango


The tango, it is practically synonymous with Argentina. I had traveled throughout the entire country but there is no place as famous for the dance as Buenos Aires. You can't escape the performers in the plazas, the paintings, or the tango shows. The Porteños (BA locals) know tourists love the tango so an industry has been built around the city's most iconic cultural export. Tango dinner shows sell from $100 to $250 per person. Obviously for a traveler like myself with a $30/day budget I … [Read more...]

San Telmo


A couple of months earlier I received a message from a friend that I grew up with. "Dan, where are you going to be in May? I have some flight credits and I could use a little South American adventure right about now" I was a few months and several thousand miles away from Buenos Aires at the time but I knew that I would be wrapping up my journey there in May. Perfect, I hadn't hung out with anyone I've known in 7 months. After two and half weeks Couchsurfing at Deni's in Villa Urquiza I … [Read more...]

La Boca and the Tango Painter


To the south of the city of Buenos Aires lies one of the most photographed neighborhoods in Argentina, La Boca. It’s brightly colored buildings are so well known that people assume all of Argentina looks that way. But in fact it’s quite unique. La Boca (the mouth) sits alongside the river and gets it’s name as its the opening of the river/harbor. La Boca’s paint scheme isn’t the only thing that makes this area so vibrant. It’s been home to artists and tango dancers for decades. The local … [Read more...]

Feria de Mataderos


Among all the other great things Buenos Aires has to offer there’s one that stood out from the rest. Across the city many neighborhoods have weekly festivals or ferias. Each one different than the rest but there was one that was like none other. Feria de Mataderos is held every Sunday from March to December in the the Mataderos neighborhood. Feria de Mataderos is known for having a long history of showcasing it’s gaucho or Argentine cowboy traditions. Blocks of neighborhood streets are … [Read more...]

Argentina’s Kentucky Derby


Gran Premio Republica Argentina Wandering the streets of Palermo in Buenos Aires one Thursday afternoon I happened upon a horse race taking place at the Hipodromo Argentino de Palermo. After watching from outside the fence I decided to see if I could get in. To my surprise the event was free to the public. And it was not just any regular race. This was the biggest one of them all. Welcome to the races. As I entered, a man was hawking programs for the race. I picked up my copy and … [Read more...]

La Bomba del Tiempo


A grungy warehouse in the heart of Buenos Aires is the last place you'd expect to find a thousand people gathering on a Monday night. But that's what happens every monday night. At the Konex, an old industrial building turned into a hip cultural and events center, a group of 14 percussionists take the stage to perform to masses of enthusiastic fans. For the next two hours La Bomba del Tiempo put on a nonstop show as their beats drive the thousand people packed inside to move every part of their … [Read more...]